by Donovan Roberts Witmer
As York morphs into a more cultured version of itself, food plays a leading role in its transformation. It seems the more that Yorkers try food from other countries, the more of it they want. Aeman Bashir, who manages YorKitchen, a food-centric small business incubator under the umbrella of the York County Economic Alliance, noticed this trend and wanted to encourage it.
“I knew that the taste buds were maturing in York,” she says, “and we were getting more transplants from other communities who were introducing it to ‘the natives’ here.”
Bashir wanted to “tap into the immigrant population so they could test the market before they dove in, to see if there was enough interest without having all of the initial capital needed to jump right into a restaurant.” Passport to Flavors fit the bill.
A ticket to Passport to Flavors nets you more than just a great ethnic meal (so far they’ve featured Cameroon, Poland, Ethiopia, India and Malaysia). It’s an immersive cultural experience, a chance to interact with the chef in a new kind of pop-up restaurant.
“Passport to Flavors was a defining moment for me,” says Sharmini Goins, owner of the market stand Sharmini’s Kitchen. “Not only was I able to share my love for the cuisine, but I was able to take my customers on a cultural and culinary road to Malaysia, all right there in YorKitchen.” This involved traditional ingredients, cookware, costumes and music, and even, for the courageous, learning how to eat with your hands.
According to Bashir, Goins “talked for almost a year before doing anything,” getting paperwork and food safety certification in order. She began catering, then presented at the first Passport to Flavors in February 2013.
“It was a huge success,” says Goins, “and social media blew up. Folks tweeted and posted photos, and WGAL even stopped by. It was then that I knew I had what it took to move forward with my dream.” Last June, 14 years after emigrating to the U.S., she hung her Sharmini’s Kitchen sign at York’s Central Market.
Her daughter, Tzipporah Goins, 11, commented, “It’s been really cool to watch my mom because it’s like she’s a flower, blooming. She’s working really hard, and I’m really proud of her.” She says while she’s “not exactly allowed to help cook the food,” she helps wait on customers.
Her 13-year-old brother Reuel is happy with his role as taste-tester. His takeaway from watching his mother launch her business is this: “My mom didn’t have everything going in her favor, but she still wanted to do it, so she went ahead and did it. It teaches me that, no matter what, you can still do what you want to do.”
In Malaysia, family, friends and community take priority. Eating together is more than just sharing breakfast, lunch and dinner. It’s also socializing for “tea snacks” or anytime you run into friends.
Malaysian flavors are complex and hard to puzzle out. That’s because they combine the rich culinary heritage of Malay, Chinese, Indian and indigenous ethnic groups, and it is this fusion that makes them irresistible. Many ingredients can be found at the larger grocery stores locally or at Asian stores both near and far (Baltimore, Philadelphia and New York have many of these stores as do regional downtowns). Sharmini specifies to always use fresh, not canned ingredients.
Char Kway Teow
This is Malaysian street food at its best, with spices and contrasting textures combining to create an amazing flavor. Tourists travel many miles to sample the authentic Char Kway Teow served in Penang on the Malaysian Peninsula. Often it is served with cockles (a variety of small clams). The secret to this dish, besides the best fresh ingredients, is a very hot, seasoned wok.
Serves 1 to 2
Ingredients: • 8 ounces flat rice noodles • 1½ tablespoon oil • 1 teaspoon fresh crushed garlic (2 to 3 cloves) • 2 teaspoons chili paste (to make paste, use fresh red chilies and blend) • 7 prawns or shrimp, tail on • dash of white pepper • 1 to 1½ tablespoons thick soy sauce • 2 large eggs • ½ cup bean sprouts • 2 tablespoons chives (kuchai or Chinese chives, if available) • 7 to 8 cockles or small clams, if available
Directions:
1. Soften noodles in warm water for 10 minutes, then drain.
2. Heat wok, then add oil. When oil is hot, add garlic and chili and stir for a few seconds.
3. Add the prawns and pepper, stirring continuously, then add noodles. Add soy sauce, mixing well.
4. Clear a hole in the center of the wok and add eggs one at a time, stirring quickly and keeping separate to avoid noodles getting soggy.
5. Stir in bean sprouts and chives before serving.
Note: No salt is added since soy sauce is used.
Matahari Salad
Matahari comes from the word “sun” in the Malay Bahasa language. This Malay salad is both gluten-free and vegan and captures some of the most popular fresh flavors of the Peninsula. Sharmini recalls growing many ingredients for cooking in her backyard, such as lemongrass, limes and wild pandan. The fragrant herbs and stalks make this dish not only delicious and visually appealing but also an aromatic treat.
Serves 1 to 2
Ingredients: For Pandan, Lemongrass and Lime Vinaigrette: • 2 pandan leaves (whole), if available • 1½ cup pineapple juice (fresh, preferably) • 1 stalk lemongrass (peel several layers off and use middle stem) • 2 whole cloves • 2 to 3 teaspoons apple cider vinegar • 1 large lime (kalamansi, if available) For Salad: • 1 cup peeled, cubed fresh pineapple • ½ cup halved grape tomatoes • ½ diced cucumber • ⅓ cup whole mint leaves (about a handful) • ⅓ cup whole cilantro leaves (about a handful) • Sliced sweet red onion, optional
Directions:
1.Tie pandan leaves into a knot.
2. Place pandan with pineapple juice, lemongrass stalk and cloves in a pan and bring to a boil.
3. Turn off heat and let cool.
4. Combine 3 to 4 tablespoons pandan and lemongrass mixture with vinegar.
5. Slice lime and squeeze out juice, adding the juice to the mixture and reserving the slices for a garnish. Combine flavors thoroughly. Note: If the mixture seems too acidic, add a little natural sugar to the vinaigrette.
6. Combine all salad ingredients. Pour vinaigrette over salad mixture and toss. Chill before serving.
Air Bandung
This popular sweet drink has a slightly floral flavor, and various versions of it can be found at many of Malaysia’s popular hawker stalls. Because of its milky sweetness, it can help tone things down following a spicy Malaysian dish.
Ingredients: For Rose Syrup: • 1 teaspoon rose essence (can be found at Asian or Indian grocery stores) • ½ cup palm sugar • ¼ cup water • 2 to 3 drops red coloring, optional • 1 pandan leaf, tied in a knot For Drink: • 8 ounces spring or purified water • 2 to 4 teaspoons rose syrup • 1 teaspoon sweetened condensed milk • 2 to 4 teaspoons evaporated milk • Several ice cubes For Garnish: • Sprig of mint leaves • ½ pandan leaf or lemongrass peelServes 1
Directions:
1. Combine syrup ingredients over medium heat. Bring syrup to a boil.
2. Remove immediately and set aside to cool.
3. Pour water into a glass and add 2 to 4 teaspoons rose syrup and the remaining drink ingredients. Top with garnish. Serve chilled.
