Diners in the know are celebrating. Tapenade Bistro—York Township’s destination for breakfast, lunch and Friday night dinner—has been serving its inspired fare for a decade. In the restaurant business, that’s beating the odds. It’s still tricky to get in without a lunch reservation, and that’s an excellent sign. But Darlene Wiley, the owner, remains surprised at Tapenade’s success. “It’s still surreal to me every day when I unlock the door,” she says. “It’s the most unpredictable business you could be in.”
Wiley, who has been in the business for 40 years, had retired early. Then she noticed the corner building in Olde Tollgate Village remained unrented. Telling her husband she was “just going to look around,” she ended up having something of a vision. “I walked in and knew exactly how I wanted everything to be.” When her family worried the hours would get out of control (it is, after all, the restaurant business) Wiley created a manageable platform. Breakfast and lunch six days a week and gourmet dinners just one night a week.
A Welcome Neighbor
Filling a local void, Tapenade Bistro began offering seasonal salads like the watermelon patch or the berry field salad (a trio of fresh berries, red onion, toasted almonds, grilled chicken breast and gorgonzola) and featured sandwiches like twisted Caprese or Tuscan flatbread. You can’t really say you’ve been to Tapenade, though, until you’ve tried its rich baked tomato soup, which is always on the menu. Once you have, your car will find its own way back there. The bistro’s desserts are worth the calories, made from scratch either in-house (think airy eclairs) or locally (imagine flourless chocolate torte), or direct-shipped from Italy (as in three-layer chocolate coppa).
Breakfasts are equally popular, and options might include a bananas Foster Belgian waffle, a cowboy Benedict, cranberry orange almond baked oatmeal or red velvet pancakes with cream-cheese creme fraiche. Not quite as well-known but still well attended are its Friday night dinners. There’s always a variation on filet mignon, like Florentine Boursin, and depending on what comes in locally, they might offer cherries jubilee pork loin, Portofino, or Wiley’s take on a local fish purveyor’s fresh catch. Specials are dreamed up, sometimes literally, at the last minute. “Sometimes I’ll wake up at 3 a.m. with an idea,” says Wiley, “then brainstorm with staff to come up with a name for the new dish.”
A Family Anniversary
Tapenade will be celebrating its anniversary through the end of 2016. So far this involves redecorating and adding new menu items. It’s also considering some fun cooking classes. Family is front and center here, and on the big day in August, two days after Wiley’s 39th wedding anniversary, Wiley’s sisters pulled her out to their van to see new décor items. All seven grandkids brought in gifts. Year-round, daughter Jamie helps run the restaurant, and husband Craig takes care of the books, picks up special orders and painstakingly does the linens. He says he’s working harder than he was before he retired.
“Everything has to be sparkling, because I’m very particular,” says Wiley, and her staff rolls their eyes. One whispers this is “a huge understatement,” but adds, “Her standard has become our standard; we’re all pretty particular now.” Turnover barely makes a dent in the loyal staff. The hours help, allowing them to pick up children after school and take care of things at home. One server who’s been there since the bistro opened got married there, as Tapenade is happy to cater or host private events. Wiley comments, “We take it as a compliment that our clients include us in their special days. We have a lot of fun with them.” Most tell her to “make whatever you want,” trusting Wiley’s palate for the details.
“I really wanted this to be a place where you gather with friends and family, where you laughed and ate something delicious,” says Wiley, “and where we can put a smile on your face.” She adds, “Celebration is to me the blessings I receive each day from family and staff and clients who come in. If someone comes in and is having a bad day and we can turn that around, those are the kinds of achievements I count. I didn’t open the Bistro for money; I needed to fulfill what was in my heart: to give. After all, life is a celebration, and I feel like we celebrate every day.”
Note: Vegan, gluten-free and allergy restrictions are cheerfully accommodated. Tapenade Bistro is a BYOB establishment.
Tapenade Bistro 2509 S. Queen St., York, PA 717-741-1234
By Cindy Kalinoski | Photography by Donovan Roberts Witmer
