As Midtown Harrisburg becomes its own destination in the City, a haven for art, culture, fine cocktails, and food opened in March 2015. The Millworks repurposed the former Stokes Millworks building (literally, much of the otherwise unusable portions of the building were refurbished or otherwise reused; the biergarten is the silver lining of a portion of irreparable roof) into what is not only a restaurant and bar but a working studio for thirty-five artists.
This seamless expanse of art goes beyond mere gallery space, creating an opportunity for the community to experience art throughout its creation. Guests may tour the workspaces, where often they’ll find artists mid-project or collaborating in common areas. Galleries showcase in-house artists only, and a front shop sells wares, textiles, jewelry, prints, and more to the public.
Art is evident throughout the building and shines on its own in the kitchen.
The vision set forth by owner Josh Kesler is that of local and sustainable ingredients. Farm partners are listed on the menu, and each practices organic or sustainable methods. The menu evolves throughout the seasons to accommodate fresh produce; the kitchen purchases and utilizes whole animals.
“You build what you really like to do, and it doesn't feel like work,” Kesler says.
Try to resist the aroma coming from the smoker outside of the restaurant. First stop: the front desk. Here, knowledgeable employees will direct you to a table or a self-tour of the artists’ studios.
Bar seating comes highly valued. Facing the outdoor biergarten, where herbs used in the kitchen and bar grow from repurposed pallets alongside colorful blooms, a finely trained bartender is ready to take your request.
Options includes artisan cocktails made with Pennsylvania spirits, including a selection of barrel-aged cocktails. The beer list features a long list of Pennsylvania craft brews from all across the state as well as select Pennsylvania ciders. A Pennsylvania wine flight features four Keystone State wineries, and the main wine list is international in nature, with about half coming from sustainable or certified organic vineyards.
Let’s back up to cocktails: the Midtowner is one of three barrel aged cocktails, this one bar manager Daniel Frizzell’s take on the classic Boulevardier. It combines XXX Shine White Corn Whiskey from Philadelphia Distilling, Aperol, sweet vermouth, and apple cinnamon bitters. The apple cinnamon bitters, along with all the other fifteen or so bitters—varieties like rose petal, coffee-almond, and hellfire—are all housemade by Frizzell, as is The Millworks’ non-alcoholic ginger beer, which is used in the barrel aged cocktail The Muse. The Wildflower, in lovely light purple, combines vodka, lavender, lemon, honey, and cassis for a dreamy and light aperitif with a pleasant herbal note from the lavender. Simple refreshment comes by way of drinks like Maggie’s Farm, which is simply a take on the classic gin and tonic. Pennsylvania gin is matched with lime and tonic, finished with fresh rosemary.
Frizzell incorporates fresh fruits and herbs into cocktails as they are in season, but Kesler says they don’t want to change too much on the menu too often.
“People like to come and get their favorites,” Kesler says. “It also helps build consistency.”
Kesler’s favorite cocktail is The Scholar, made from Dad’s Hat Whiskey, Fernet Branca, coffee-almond bitters and maple. Kesler called it “straight evil” in jest, but this serves as a terrific digestif, the Fernet Branca providing an herbal, almost spicy note accented by the almond and maple.
Happy hour runs from 4 to 6 p.m. Tuesday through Friday and features two rotating beers for $2.50 each, a craft cocktail at half price, and half-off The Millworks’ white pizza.
Speaking of pizzas, the wood-fired pizzas are made with organic stone-milled flour from a local flour mill; gluten-free versions also are available by request. It’s here and elsewhere throughout the menu where you’ll find the smoked treats you passed on your way in, like on the North Mountain Pastures Smoked BBQ Pork pizza, topped with goat cheese, charred apples and pickled onions, finished with just a touch of fresh cilantro. Share this to start or make it a meal.
Another great starter is the Urban Picnic, a charcuterie plate featuring locally cured and smoked meats, local grass-fed dairy artisan cheese, housemade bacon marmalade, and pickled vegetables. Or venture to the Chesapeake with the wood oven roasted middleneck clams, served with potatoes, ham broth, and summer savory.
Chef Lance Smith returned to the area to take the helm in the kitchen, and he’s worked with Kesler and the staff to expand the menu’s sourcing zone, bringing in fresh seafood from reputable purveyors for dishes like the seared scallops and succotash. Fresh New Jersey Day Boat Scallops are seared and served with a vegetable succotash and topped with brown butter beurre blanc. The combination is fresh and interesting and quickly became a house favorite, Smith says.
“[Smith] is a good representation of us and the direction we’re going,” Kesler says.
The Millworks has added lunch hours, opening at 11 a.m. Tuesday through Saturday. Dinner service will begin at 4 p.m., and Sunday brunch will continue to be served from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.
Smith says the lunch menu will feature unique sandwiches and large entrée salads that are plays on the traditional, yet are all made with local farm ingredients.
“I can’t wait to create signature things you can’t get anywhere else,” Smith says. “[Items] like a BLT, but it’ll be the best you’ve ever had.”
Other expected items include a version of a patty melt topped with a fried egg and a meatloaf sandwich.
The Millworks also expects to add its rooftop deck in the spring, further boosting its capacity in good weather. At present, the restaurant seats 152 people, plus twenty bar seats and sixty-four seats in the biergarten.
The Millworks / 340 Verbeke St., Harrisburg www.millworksharrisburg.com / 717-695-4888
By Sara Bozich / Photography by Donovan Roberts Witmer
